Pivot Bearings: Internal Grease, Mounting Application and When to Replace Them
Cracking, play and pivot wear usually come from unprotected mounting and already contaminated bearings. The solution is not to 'regrease from outside'; the solution is to mount properly from the start and replace when needed.
Why these bearings are different
Pivot bearings work under very specific conditions that set them apart from other bicycle bearings:
- Slow rotation, side loads and impacts.
- High exposure to water, mud and frequent washing.
This is why cartridges must come with suitable internal grease for pivots and the assembly must protect interfaces to keep contamination out.
Cartridge internal grease (what truly matters)
Our bearing kits arrive factory pre-greased with pivot-grade grease (tacky, water-resistant and with load additives). That is what keeps the bearing healthy under slow rotation and impacts.
Important:
- If a cartridge feels rough or contaminated, replace it.
- Prying seals to 'inject' grease does not restore original reliability.
Where grease goes during assembly (and where it does NOT)
Sealed cartridges (2RS / LLU / LLB)
Do not add internal grease in service. If it is rough/contaminated → replacement.
During assembly, apply only a thin film on hidden interfaces:
- Bearing OD and frame seat (before pressing): prevents corrosion/noises and eases future removal.
- Axle/spacers and contact with the inner ring (ID): eliminates micro-creaks and protects the fit.
Caution:
- If the frame manufacturer requires retainer on the OD, use retainer (not grease) in that area.
- Do not leave exposed grease on the visible seal face or around the perimeter: it only attracts dust and mud.
Bushings / greasable systems
If your frame uses bushings or grease ports, then do apply full coverage on sliding surfaces and re-grease periodically (without overflowing and wiping off any excess after cycling the linkage).
Smart maintenance
Functional check without disassembly
Per season, ~every 6–12 months: check play, noises and smoothness when compressing the suspension. After very muddy rides, clean and dry the exterior (no direct jet to seals).
Cartridge replacement
In wet use/enduro/e-MTB it's usually due every season; in dry XC/Trail, often every 1–2 seasons. Depends on hours, climate and washing habits.
Rule of thumb:
- Removing to 're-grease' a cartridge is not worth it: if it's out, it's to install a new one.
Clear signs to replace
These are the signs that it's time to replace the bearings:
- Gritty rotation even off the frame.
- Play that doesn't disappear at the correct torque.
- Damaged seals or visible rust.
- Sand-like noises that return after cleaning the exterior.
Mounting mini-checklist
Follow this order for a proper assembly:
- Follow the frame manufacturer's sequence and torque values.
- Clean and dry seats, axles, washers and end caps.
- Apply a thin film on OD/seat and ID/axle-spacers (or retainer on the OD if specified).
- Press/assemble without forcing alignments; tighten to the specified torque.
- Cycle the linkage to settle and wipe any visible excess.
Ready-to-install kits
On our site you'll find pre-greased bearing kits by frame model, ready to press and ride. A correct assembly from day one is what makes the difference in silence, smoothness and durability.